15/20
Contemporary$$$
You’ve heard of paddock-to-plate. Now meet paddock-to-garden-to-deli-to-bakery-to-kitchen-to-plate. Herbs and vegetables grow in the kitchen garden and on the organic farm, meat is aged at the Harvest Deli next door, and brilliant sourdough bread emerges from an old wood-fired Scotch oven. In winter, locals gather inside over Negronis on worn leather armchairs, while in summer the place to be is on the broad balcony, tucking into charcuterie boards of local cheeses and cured meats, or deep-fried Thai son-in-law eggs with a crisp papaya salad and puffed rice. A slashed double-pork cutlet is both meaty and milky; and fennel and cabbage slaw with Greek yoghurt dressing cleanly sidesteps the current obsession for all things mayo. Be warned, by the time a lovely vanilla yoghurt, mixed berries, rye crumbs and orange semolina cake trifle comes out, you’ll be plotting your own tree/sea change so you can get back here more often.
And … The baker’s oven out back is 102 years young
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe The Good Life, updated.
Best bit The beautiful sourdough.
Worst bit Shop at the deli before dinner.
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