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Il Bacaro

La dolce vita Italiana... Il Bacaro.
La dolce vita Italiana... Il Bacaro.Luis Ascui

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$$

With its laneways aromatic from the handiwork of baristas and an enduring penchant for city tailoring in every shade of black, Melbourne loves to channel la dolce vita Italiana. Unsurprising, then, that a sophisticated but bustling Italian restaurant has thrived in sexy, buzzy Little Collins Street since the mid-1990s. Naturally it comes with moody lighting, leather banquettes, effusive Italian-peppered patter from the staff, a menu of ancient and modern food (think risotto with thistle, pork chop with amaretto-poached fig) and a clientele in sharp suits checking deals on their phones. Like a beautiful chunk of Roman marble, Il Bacaro seems immortal, with its long-time chef still producing iconic calamari on rocket and roast duck with mustard fruits, but also succulent scallops with almond cream, crisp pig cheek and muscatels. His desserts are crazy-brave: things like garishly delicious beetroot-glazed strawberries with goat’s curd panna cotta, white chocolate fizz and basil. Prego, Melbourne. 

And … Have a Vespa Martini at that spacious central marble bar.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Trad Italian zhooshed for CBD sophisticates.
Best bit Surprising ingredients.
Worst bit Can get noisy.

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