Lamaro's Bodega

Since its classy refurbishment in 2005, this historic pub in a leafy residential pocket has delighted locals with its clever mix of glamour and comfort. Despite a changing of the guard - the effervescent Pam Lamaro has retired and long-serving Shaun Sheridan now heads the kitchen - Lamaro's retains its urbane but relaxed vibe. The food, too, has kept the faith, and perhaps lifted a little. A lightly charred grain-fed eye fillet is moistly pink and served with a well-balanced bearnaise sauce. Several dishes show an Asian twist; perhaps three plump crescents of char siu pork gyoza enlivened with black vinegar dressing, or the ever-popular Sichuan duck, crisp-skinned and delicately spicy with a sweet pool of orange-blossom caramel. For dessert, perhaps a subtle espresso creme brulee with feathery almond foam. Servings are generous, waitstaff are friendly and knowledgeable, and the carpeted dining room - fully separated from the bustling bar - is a stylish sanctuary of warm autumnal tones, soft lighting and padded chairs.