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Lamaro's Bodega

Lamaro's, restaurant, South Melbourne.
Lamaro's, restaurant, South Melbourne.Supplied

13/20

Modern Australian$$

At what point does a pub become a gastropub? Perhaps it's when it attracts patrons who can't truthfully call it their local. If so, Lamaro's is a model of the genre. The dining experience is in line with the building itself. There is no unnecessary flash; instead, a quiet dining room welcomes all comers with contemporary furnishings and a softly sophisticated vibe. And then there's the food. Entrees set the bar high, with things like deliciously fatty black angus beef tataki marrying with spicy kimchi and the sharp bite of black pepper. A rich and complex shallot jus combines with tangy hot mustard coleslaw to rebirth the classic veal schnitzel, while a sticky mouthful of fork-tender duck cooked two ways (Sichuan-spiced, and tamarind-glazed) outshines pumpkin gnocchi (perhaps a tad rubbery). Desserts hit a high note. Pop rocks playfully partner chocolate fondue - it's fun and elegant, much like the pub.

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