IN PETER Megas' early days as a Melbourne fishmonger in the 1970s, certain species of local fish were a sure thing; snapper, whiting and flounder remain popular today. But others, such as yellow-eye mullet, have all but disappeared from fish shops.
''If I put that in my window now, I doubt I'd sell one,'' Megas, owner of Claringbolds Seafoods at Prahran Market, says. ''There's nothing wrong with yellow-eye mullet. It's just not popular [and] you have to try and give people what they want.''
Peter Megas holds a yellow-eye mullet, a not-so-popular species.Credit: Simon Schluter
Yellow-eye mullet and other species, such as black bream, garfish and sardines, which are also caught locally, are some of the species Melbourne University marine researcher John Ford believes we could be eating more of. If there's one thing those concerned with safeguarding fish, crustacean and mollusc stocks agree on, it's this: if we want to eat more seafood, the least we can do is spread the love.
Australians are eating more seafood every year. In the late 1960s we ate about 5½ kilograms each a year, but this figure doubled during the following three decades as waves of European and then Asian migration gradually influenced broader eating habits. More recently the emphasis by nutritionists on seafood's health benefits has provided an extra boon.
Black bream (bottom), yellow-eye mullet (top), silver trevally (far left), garfish (pointy nose), sardine (smallest), silver whiting (second from left) and cuttlefish.Credit: Simon Schluter
According to the latest data from the Seafood Cooperative Research Centre, we now eat 17.1 kilograms each a year - bang on average for a developed nation.
But what is it that we're eating? Seafood industry insider John Susman says much of this growing hunger for seafood is being sated by imports. About two-thirds of seafood eaten in Australia is imported. Of this, the single-biggest category is canned fish. In 2008-09 we imported 54,000 tonnes; 70 per cent of it tuna.
The next-largest import categories were frozen fillets and frozen whole fish. Imports of cheap Vietnamese basa, a catfish species, have also soared, the white fillets a popular purchase at supermarkets and the saviour of many fast-food outlets.
Susman, owner of seafood consultancy group Fisheads, likens such imported products to the advent of cask wine, saying their presence has allowed more people to eat seafood.
Australians are increasingly turning to supermarkets for seafood. Between 1991 and 2005, Melbourne supermarkets' share of fresh seafood sales doubled from 16 per cent to 32 per cent, according to research commissioned by the government and the Fisheries Research and Development Corporation(FRDC). In the same period, Melbourne independent fishmongers outsold supermarkets in volume and dollar terms but their share of the fresh, chilled and frozen-loose seafood market fell from 65 per cent to 51 per cent. Nick Ruello, who led the original research, did a similar report for the FRDC last year and found supermarkets' share of sales had increased since 2005 in Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney.
Megas says he is ''not totally worried'' about the competition from supermarkets. He believes that with their higher staff turnover and lower range of local, fresh product, supermarkets will never match specialised fish shops for service. More than ever, Megas says, Australians want specialist advice on how to choose, prepare and cook seafood. Judging by the type of seafood we are buying - no skin, no bones, no other messy bits - our knowledge of how to prepare and cook seafood has not grown with our appetite for it.
Megas recalls working in the family fish shop on Carlisle Street, Balaclava, in the 1970s when most sales were of local fish species. ''People were very fussy about the quality of their fish,'' he says. ''They wanted to see it whole before you cut it … with flathead we took the head off, took the guts out and cut the two sides off the middle bone … No one would buy a flathead fillet now if it was not boneless and skinless.''
When he began working at Prahran Market in the 1980s, whole fish took up almost half the shop display; now it is more like 10 per cent to 15 per cent.
"Fresh sardines are absolutely wasted on animal feed." - John Ford, Melbourne University
Con Andronis, of seafood wholesaling giant Clamms, says that when he opened his own small fish shop in Richmond 35 years ago, filleted fish was rare. ''I began putting fillets in the window and people laughed at me.''
Today, Megas' most consistent sellers are boneless and skinless fillets of species such as Atlantic salmon and ocean trout. Not widely available until recently, the farmed Tasmanian products march out the door, while Victorian products can be harder to move.
Although salmon is now Australia's most valuable fisheries product, in volume terms the largest species produced is sardines (40,737 tonnes in 2009-10). However, the low value given to sardines means the bulk ends up as bait and cat food.
Ford says sardines, predominantly caught wild in Victoria, are a delicious option that should not be overlooked by home cooks. ''Fresh sardines are absolutely wasted on animal feed,'' he says. ''They taste very different to the canned version many of us are familiar with.''
FRDC head Patrick Hone points out that because Australia's fishing industry is subject to quotas, expanding the species we target for consumption will be good for consumers in more ways than one. ''Eating a bigger variety takes the load off more-favoured species,'' Hone says. ''Some of the really popular wild species in Australia [are] flathead and King George whiting. But as demand grows, we can't catch more so the price goes up. But we can tell people there are other species that taste just as good, if not better.''
Hone believes chefs can play a big role in determining future trends and mentions a dish he ate - sashimi-style yellow-eye mullet sourced from the Coorong estuary - at Rockpool Bar & Grill in Sydney. ''People like Neil Perry can really elevate a species that used to be used only as bait or fertiliser,'' Hone says.
He credits Susman with playing an important role in championing not just sustainable, but ''under-utilised species''. Susman owns Sydney-based Fisheads Seafood Strategy, a seafood consultancy business that acts as an intermediary between chefs, fishers and wholesale suppliers. In Melbourne he's worked with people such as Shannon Bennett, Ian Curley, Paul Wilson, Andrew McConnell and Neil Perry.
Susman says chefs are increasingly concerned about sourcing sustainable seafood. ''I field 20 calls a week from chefs [asking], 'How do I know that what I'm serving is sustainable and how do I validate that to journalists and customers?''
But industry veteran Spencer Wilkinson says the extent to which high-profile chefs can influence broader consumption patterns is questionable. Wilkinson supplies seafood to restaurants including MoVida Next Door, MoVida Aqui, Bar Idda, Il Bacaro and Flower Drum. Chefs such as Frank Camorra, he points out, want exclusive produce that can be difficult for home chefs to access. He now supplies Camorra with rock flathead from Victoria's Corner Inlet after the fishery was recently approved as sustainable by the Australian Conservation Foundation - and much of its produce goes directly to restaurants.
''How many people can afford a $40-$50 main meal? A high-class restaurant can move a product very quickly,'' Wilkinson says.
Back on the shop floor, Megas is adamant it is not his role to encourage customers to experiment, even with more affordable local seafood. ''We sell 10-15 species as well as crustaceans and molluscs that are the most popular. With limited space, there's not much point trying to sell something people won't buy. Most of our customers have their favourite fish and they will stick with that … What the fishing industry does not have is a marketing board like the meat and dairy industries.''
Susman believes retailers and fishermen could play a bigger role in pushing a wider variety.
Meanwhile, Ford and Hone say we could all be doing our bit by buying something different each time we shop for seafood. As the industry experts Epicure consulted for its seasonal suggestions point out, there's no need to follow recipes to a T. Ask your fishmonger for a suitable local alternative. In short, cast your net a little wider.
Summer
Blue-eye trevalla Available year-round but peak supply in summer. Deep-water species caught off Victoria's coast. A large fish (up to 80 centimetres), it has delicate-flavoured firm flesh and few bones. Suitable for most types of cooking. Occasionally served sashimi style. Widely available.
Snapper A bream, not to be confused with tropical snapper. Available year-round, Con Andronis from Clamms says it's been the best snapper season in years, with huge numbers swimming into Port Phillip Bay. With sweet, mild-flavoured flesh, snapper is a versatile fish because it is available in sizes from 30 centimetres to 60 centimetres. Most of the large snapper are caught wild, while baby snapper is also farmed. Suitable for most types of cooking. Head good in stocks and available whole, filleted or in cutlets. Pin bones easy to remove. Port Phillip snapper recently given tick by the Australian Conservation Foundation (ACF).
Flathead There are many species of flathead but tiger flathead caught off Lakes Entrance and Portland is widely available. Rock flathead is pricier and can be more difficult to come by. Mild-flavoured firm flesh, which can dry out. More suitable for grilling, steaming or deep-frying. Skinned and boneless fillets or ''tails'' increasingly available.
Prawns Wild-caught school prawns from Lakes Entrance are plentiful in the summer months.
Southern rocklobster Also called crayfish in Victoria. Caught along southern coast from Apollo Bay to Portland. Best in summer as females waste away over winter when breeding. Flesh is rich-tasting and firm. Excellent boiled, on the barbecue, grilled or steamed but don't overcook or will become dry. Prices vary depending on supply.
*Yellow-eye mullet Supply can be erratic but caught in Port Phillip Bay particularly in summer months. Quite oily and strong smelling, mullet is suited to baking and grilling although those adverse to strongly flavoured fish may prefer it smoked, or remove the fat layer beneath the skin.
Autumn
*Calamari Southern calamari, caught at Corner Inlet and in Port Phillip Bay, is a great and sustainable choice for your plate. Available year-round but at its best size in early autumn and into winter.
*Squid Southern squid is caught in Bass Strait and is a much cheaper alternative to calamari, selling for about $6/kilogram compared with $18/kilogram for calamari. A caveat is that squid can toughen if overcooked, while calamari is more forgiving to the novice home cook.
John Dory A very popular fish with sweet-tasting, firm flesh that fetches a premium price. Bycatch of seals by trawl net can be an issue although John Ford says practices are improving. Caught in Bass Strait and the continental shelf in Commonwealth-controlled fisheries, it can be difficult to find in Melbourne markets.
Yellowtail kingfish A type of trevally that looks like a small tuna and is often sold in steak or cutlet form. Mostly line-caught. Historically caught in high numbers in NSW, it is increasingly common in Victorian waters. Smaller fish are more tender and have more flavour. Suited to baking, grilling or the barbecue but wrapping in foil is recommended. Few bones. Can also be eaten sashimi-style.
*Southern school whiting Often called silver whiting. An under-the-radar fish caught in abundance off Lakes Entrance and in Western Port. Great in Mediterranean-style dishes. A bit larger than the sardine, it can be filleted, or barbecue or fry the whole fish until the small bones become crunchy and edible.
Garfish Victorian garfish caught in Port Phillip Bay is not considered overfished. This long, thin fish has sweet-tasting firm flesh. Some don't like the many fine rib bones but they are edible, or you can buy it filleted. Whole garfish should have the guts removed. Great grilled or on the barbecue.
Winter
*King George whiting Available year-round, whiting breed over summer so it is better eating in the cooler months. Whiting has lots of fine bones, which can be off-putting for some. White, flaky flesh suitable for steaming, pan-frying, grilling or baking. Port Phillip and Corner Inlet have the ACF tick.
*Black bream Caught in the Gippsland Lakes. Whole fish should be gutted as soon as possible. Distinctive, sweet-tasting flesh. Good cooked whole or filleted and is suitable for most methods of cooking. Popular in Asian cooking.
Pink ling Often incorrectly labelled as rockling. Considered by many as unattractive, ling is versatile with long fillets of nice-tasting white flesh often sold as boned fillets or steaks. Overfishing has been a concern; best to buy occasionally.
Silver warehou Also known as spotted warehou or spotted trevally and often labelled simply as trevally. Caught in Bass Strait and some concerns regarding bycatch of seals although Patrick Hone (FRDC) says practices are improving. Stocks are considered to be at a sustainable level. A very cheap, off-the-radar fish with a flavoursome thick, white fillet and few bones. Suitable for most grilling, frying and baking and suitable for fish cakes. Not particularly oily, it is susceptible to overcooking.
Spring
Silver trevally A strong-tasting fish, caught outside the heads or when it enters the bays. Corner Inlet and Port Phillip silver trevally fisheries have ACF approval. Swim in large schools and caught in nets although bycatch not considered a big problem. Can have a strong flavour depending on oil content. Best to remove skin. Suitable for most methods of cooking and bones easily removed.
*Sardine Widely available from late spring until the end of summer. Plentiful in Port Phillip Bay and in the Eden area. Larger than the canned variety many are familiar with, it is sold whole or filleted. Easy to cook and relatively easy to bone and fillet.
Year-round
*Cuttlefish Better to eat in the warmer months as adults waste away over winter months when feeding their young.
*Mussel Available year-round but smaller in winter so makes for better eating in the warmer months. Farmed widely in Victoria but supply can be erratic depending on environmental conditions. Great sustainable choice as it is bottom of the food chain.
*Octopus A byproduct rather than targeted species often caught in seine nets off Lakes Entrance and at Portland or caught in lobster pots in Victorian waters. Very popular in Mediterranean dishes. You can eat the head but most flesh is in the tentacles.
Abalone Most locally available abalone is farmed. Ocean Wave Seafoods farm near Geelong has received the ACF tick and there are many farms near Mallacoota. Wild abalone mostly go to high-end restaurants or are exported. Saute or fry briefly so as not to toughen. Alternatively, cut abalone flesh into strips, place in a colander and pour over two cups of boiling water.
Yabby Farmed in Victoria but not widely available.
Sea mullet Available year-round although not a big catch for Lakes Entrance fishermen. May be difficult to source because of its low value. Strong flavour.
NOTES: We consulted experts from industry, academia, conservation and government for this guide. Not all agree with the inclusion of each species. The asterisk denotes those recommended by the Australian Marine Conservation Society as ''better choice'' species. See sustainableseafood.org.au
On sharks: The predominant species landed in Victoria is gummy shark, which is not considered at risk of overfishing. Lack of bones makes gummy popular but the umbrella term ''flake'' in Victoria makes it difficult to identify the shark on offer. There are significant bycatch issues with some gummy fisheries.
Buying: Some of the listed species may be difficult to source. Call your local fish shop to check.
Some cooking suggestions have been sourced from australianseafood.com.au and sydneyfishmarket.com.au.