Millennial pink Ms Elwood brightens up the neighbourhood

While Melbourne's winter nights are hypnotising many with the lure of home delivery, it pays to venture out into the chill when you spot something like Ms Elwood in the darkness – a welcoming mirage, glowing beauty parlour pink.

Ms Elwood is a spirited pan-Asian joint, heavy on the Japanese. It's a fiesta of neon and groovy beats, with swing seats in the window and "I love you x" spray-painted on a panel above the kitchen.

Ms Elwood is owned and operated by the same team behind the Joinery, a handsome corner venue across the road, livening up the streets that spoke off the main roundabout in Elwood.

Owner Dan Dixon initially wanted to bring some good Vietnamese to the area (the space was originally going to be another Hanoi Hannah but that didn't eventuate) but vocal locals pushed for some Japanese in the deal too, leading to a menu that bounces from sashimi to ramen, stopping off for bao and banh xeo on the way. It's like a flipbook of contemporary faves.

First up, turn to the drinks list, where you'll find a small, Euro-centric wine list, a clutch of sakes, homegrown craft beers and a cocktail list that's high on fun – think a Mint Julep with matcha, Japanese whiskey with blood orange and jalapeno, or a boozy slushie for reliving teenage kicks.

The menu lends itself equally well to drink snacking as well as more fulsome, leisurely dining. The raw section features nigiri and sashimi, as well as beef tataki and tuna tartare, or you can hook into the cooked, with share plates of miso roasted cauliflower – a fat steak of it, charred and buttery – and bowls of soba noodles topped with rice-crusted tofu and plump slices of shiitake.  

There are also rice paper rolls and gyoza to be had, as well as three kinds of bao. The karaage (fried chicken) version is a sweet, marshmallowy mouthful with just the right amount of pickled crunch.

Chunkier dishes include a Cape Grim porterhouse teriyaki and a sticky brick of pork belly, rich as custard in a broth fragrant with star anise. Team this with the snappy green papaya salad for a freshening blast of herbs and chilli.

If you're up for a solo bowl, there are two ramens on offer – vegetarian with chickpeas and a 12-hour pork version – as well as the dish du jour, a salmon poke.

For dessert, a simple trio riffs on Asian flavours – share the neat little matcha doughnuts, pumped with yuzu curd and topped with a drizzle of chilli-spiked chocolate sauce for a peppy denouement.

With its cute service, bevy of specials (unlimited sushi Sundays, $1 dumplings on Wednesdays, Happy Hour specials and a bowl and cocktail combo for only $25) and feel-good fit-out, Ms Elwood's just the kind of neighbourhood pal you've always wanted.