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Ortiga

Ortiga Article Lead - narrow
Ortiga Article Lead - narrowSupplied

17/20

Spanish

Heavy beamed ceilings and rough brick walls suggest you're in for some simple rustic food at Ortiga but, while they serve up robust flavours and espouse a nose-to-tail ethos, peasants could only dream of food (and wine) like this. Chef Pablo Tordesillas's imaginative Iberian menu is designed to share. Croquetas are a no-brainer; with explosively liquid centres of velvety bechamel. Mar y montana divides; the iodine of the oysters either overwhelming or complementing the pig trotter, depending on your sensibilities. No such divisions over the pork jowl cooked for 14 hours and served with samfaina, potato and artichokes. Crumbs of morcilla with pine nuts, pea tendrils, fresh goat's cheese and broadbeans are perfect complements of flavour and texture. Rabbit escabeche with pickled vegetables scented with tarragon and served up with its liver is another menu star. A congenial atmosphere and an outstanding wine list make it easy to over-order so plan ahead to save space for the jaw-droppingly good pumpkin millefeuille.

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