Pope Joan

77-79 Nicholson Street Brunswick East, Victoria 3057

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Opening hours Mon-Fri 7.30am-11.30pm; Sat-Sun 7.30am-5pm
Features Accepts bookings, Bar, Events, Family friendly, Food shop, Gluten-free options, Green-eco focus, Breakfast-brunch, Wheelchair access, Vegetarian friendly
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Chef Matthew Wilkinson, Jason Newton
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 03 9388 8858

Brunswick East’s patron saint of excellent coffee has stormed south along Nicholson Street as boldly as Joan of Arc went north to smite the English, but with far better food. Flavours are mild and harmonious: perhaps four earthy pucks of black pudding with a golden crumbed egg, peppery fennel and sweet beetroot relish; a creamy potato-nettle croquette with smoked salmon and a poached egg; or rib-sticking orange and almond bread with ricotta and salted caramel. Lunch might be a sandwich filled with smoked pork terrine, house-made Branston pickle and parmesan. The queue thins at dinner, when prices bust GFU$30 limits.