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Food industry dines out on successes

A swag of chefs, gaggle of critics and host of media personalities, industry figures and invited guests rocked out to toast the launch of the brisbanetimes.com.au Queensland Good Food Guide 2013 at Lightspace on Monday night.

It was a veritable who's who of the local dining scene with the popular Alistair McLeod on the microphone, ex-MasterChef-cum-From Paddock to Plate star Matt Moran lending celebrity clout and Matt Golinski enjoying the evening's hospitality alongside Brisbane's big food families; the Moubarak's, Georges and Pughs to name a few.

But while flutes of Pol Roger and trays of delectable canapés set a celebratory tone for the evening, there were a few left crestfallen by the evening’s end, as five metro restaurants lost their coveted one-hat status.

Guests had been warned – “I think most will acknowledge that things perhaps haven't been running as smoothly as they should, and there are changes they need to put in place,” editor Natascha Mirosch said ahead of the big night.

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"It's never an easy decision to make."

And so, as a host of new one hat venues were welcomed to the book – including “best new restaurant” Gerard's Bistro - some of Brisbane's favourite establishments - 1889 Enoteca, Alchemy, Cinco Bistro, Era Bistro and Reserve - discovered they had dropped from one to no hats.

The news raised a few eyebrows even as it drew nods of assent. It had been a tough year for the industry, with natural disasters threatening already slim margins and a general tightening of corporate belts applying a particularly persistent pressure.

There had also been a slew of openings. Competition was tighter, benchmarks had altered - "well it looks like we'll have to do better next year," one demoted figure was heard to say.

However the mood could not be dampened as this year's edition of the guide told a story of which everyone could be proud.

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Queensland's food industry continues to go from strength to strength. Collectively hardworking restaurateurs, providers, wait staff and chefs continue to sweat out a reputation for quality, diversity and a growing sense of confidence.

Perhaps most confident is the team from Esquire which was named Best Restaurant for the second year in a row.

Ryan Squire's riverfront establishment was also the only one to receive three hats.

Clearly moved by the news, Squires took to the microphone with a glass of Champagne in hand and thanked the crew who each have stake in the restaurant's success, chiefly co-owner Cameron Murchison and head chef Ben Devlin.

Though none was quite as thrilled as the state's new top chef, Urbane's unassuming Alejandro Cancino, who was gracious and charming in his acceptance of the honour.

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"I'll be going back to celebrate in the kitchen with the team," Cancino said. "I am so happy, I am so pleased, I am so proud of the team."

Cancino, who took over from last year's best chef Kym Machin at Urbane last year, was recognised for his creativity, flair for the imaginative, and lack of pretension.

Indeed, for all the pomp and ceremony, it was clear that the evening was really a chance for the sector to let down its hair and kick up well-worn heels.

The celebrations continued well into the evening, with guests enjoying a duck barbeque, cheese station complete with miniature grape-laden hills hoist, and oyster bar boasting fresh and succulent specimens from both of the bays - Cloudy and Coffin.

Red cheeks were numerous, as were the gift bags less-than-surreptitiously slung over the shoulders of some departing guests.

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Though with all the best foodies clearly taking the night off, the question remained - where to for (a very late) dinner?

Hmm ... if only there was some sort of guide ...

Best Restaurant
2013: Esquire, CBD

2012: Esquire, CBD

Best New Restaurant

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2013: Gerard's Bistro, Fortitude Valley
2012: Public, CBD

Chef of the Year

2013: Alejandro Cancino, Urbane
2012: Kym Machin (Spring, formerly of Urbane, both CBD)

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