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Adios guacamole: Sweet avocado recipes from chocolate mousse and cookies to ice-cream and iced coffee

Kristen Hartke

Karen Martini's coconut and raspberry cake slathered in glossy avocado-chocolate ganache.
Karen Martini's coconut and raspberry cake slathered in glossy avocado-chocolate ganache.Marina Oliphant

Ask cookbook author Pat Tanumihardja about some of her favourite food memories growing up in Indonesia, and avocados will figure prominently in her response.

"Half an avocado, drizzled with palm sugar syrup," she says with a happy sigh.

In many cultures, from Indonesia to Brazil to Sri Lanka, the avocado is treated as the fruit it actually is, sometimes topped off with a squirt of chocolate syrup or sweetened condensed milk, and, more often, incorporated into sweet drinks. The frosty avocado-based shake known in Vietnam as sinh to bo is a simple combination of avocado, condensed milk, ice cubes and sugar syrup that is replicated variously around the world: Indonesians add coffee or chocolate syrup, calling it Es Alpukat (recipe below), while Brazilians enliven the same shake with a squirt of tart lime juice, and a Moroccan version sweetens the mix with icing sugar and a hint of orange blossom water.

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Pete Evans' green smoothie with avocado
Pete Evans' green smoothie with avocado Pete Evans

Known across Asia as "butter fruit", the avocado has a mild flavour and creamy texture that makes it a remarkably adaptable ingredient for many recipes, including desserts. While avocados are normally consumed raw, and can become bitter if cooked over direct heat, they can be mashed or pureed in baking, and they are increasingly being found whipped into smoothies and bubble teas as we discover that avocados can go far beyond standard chip-and-dip fare.

Using avocados for something besides guacamole or other savoury dishes was a tough sell for Pati Jinich, host of television series Pati's Mexican Table, who grew up in Mexico City.

"The first time I ever heard of using avocados in something sweet was from my sister, Sharon, who is a vegan," Jinich says. "She made this avocado chocolate mousse, and I was totally disgusted by the thought of it."

Raw chocolate mousse with avocado
Raw chocolate mousse with avocado China Squirrel
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But because of its thick, buttery consistency, avocado does seem to particularly shine when paired with chocolate, notes Tanumihardja. "Chocolate mousse is a great way to introduce someone to avocado as a dessert, because you really don't know there's avocado in it," she said.

Indeed, Jinich's sister had the last laugh, because that mousse turned out to be delicious, claiming another convert to the avocado-as-dessert movement. Inspired by her sister's mousse, Jinich began experimenting with avocados in smoothies, pancakes and icy poles, leading her to create desserts such as avocado and coconut ice-cream (recipe below), a surprisingly rich dairy-free confection with a velvety mouthfeel reminiscent of gelato.

"I found that avocados could be one of the most luscious, sensuous, silky, exuberant ingredients ever," says Jinich. "In my house, we use avocados as a savoury ingredient 65 per cent of the time. We throw it on top of everything. But these days, I'm also putting it in cakes."

The creamy texture of ripe avocados makes it a natural ingredient for rich desserts that are deceptively healthy, because, although there's up to 28 grams of fat in a medium-size fruit, it is largely monounsaturated fat, which can lower cholesterol. A tablespoon of avocado has 105 kilojoules, compared to 418 kilojoules in the same amount of butter, and just over two grams of fat, primarily unsaturated, in contrast to 12 grams of mostly saturated fat in butter. Substitute mashed avocado 1-to-1 for at least some of the butter in baked goods and suddenly that brownie seems like less of a no-no.

Avocado adds to the green colour of these matcha bliss balls
Avocado adds to the green colour of these matcha bliss balls Dominic Lorrimer
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When Lara Ferroni set out to research avocado recipes for her book An Avocado a Day, she wasn't necessarily a fan of the dessert avocado, either. Four months and 300 avocados later, she has seen the light.

"Avocados don't really have a savoury flavour," Ferroni says, "but they have an umami quality. Once I got over that mental hump of 'It's just for guacamole', it was really easy to take avocados in a sweet direction."

It was a trip to Australia and New Zealand, that got Ferroni, who typically writes single-subject cookbooks on such topics as doughnuts and eggs, thinking about exploring avocados: "You'll find avocados in so many applications there – pickled or mixed with other types of fruit or mashed on toast with goat's cheese and balsamic vinegar."

Indeed, avocado can play as well with mango, pineapple and citrus as it does with chocolate, coffee and vanilla. If you're having trouble embracing avocado as a fruit, both Jinich and Ferroni recommend tossing chunks of it into smoothies, which Jinich called "a perfect gateway for avocados" – or even margaritas.

"Once you've done that, it's easier to take the plunge for adding it to cookies and cakes," Jinich says.

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Ferroni's "Cado-ritas" (avocado margaritas) blend just a smidgen of avocado with lime juice, sugar, tequila and orange liqueur, to add a touch of creaminess to a traditional margarita. "Once I started to explore avocado-based beverages, I really became interested in how to achieve different degrees of creaminess without using dairy," she says.

Her avocado key lime pie (recipe below) combines many of the same ingredients as her cocktail into a cool green custard inside a biscuit crust. "It's deliciously tart and creamy," she says.

A little avocado can actually go a long way – although, for some, that may lead to concerns about how to store any fruit that didn't make it into that pie or ice-cream.

Ferroni thinks she has found the solution: freezing avocado, either in cubes or lightly mashed, then defrosting it for later use in baked goods or smoothies – but not in guacamole or any other applications where fresh is best.

"I'm pretty sure there was a period of time that I was the country's largest avocado purchaser as a home cook," says Ferroni. "I had to figure out what to do with all those leftovers."

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Avocado dessert recipes to go with?Washington Post story for Good Food. avocado and coconut ice-cream; chocolate dipped avocado cookies; iced avocado and coffee drink; avocado key lime pie. PHOTO CREDIT?Deb Lindsey for The Washington Post
Avocado dessert recipes to go with?Washington Post story for Good Food. avocado and coconut ice-cream; chocolate dipped avocado cookies; iced avocado and coffee drink; avocado key lime pie. PHOTO CREDIT?Deb Lindsey for The Washington PostDeb Lindsey for The Washington Post

Vegan avocado and coconut ice-cream

Neither eggs nor dairy is required for this luscious frozen treat, which gets its creamy texture from pureed avocado and rich coconut milk. Calling it "ridiculously yummy," chef Pati Jinich notes that the nutty flavour is enhanced by a topping of toasted coconut flakes or nuts – and a drizzle of chocolate syrup would not be amiss.

This recipe calls for an ice-cream maker, but this coconut-avocado mixture can be chilled and served as a cold mousse, or packed into a container and frozen to a dense soft-serve consistency.

Note: For an optimal ice-cream consistency, the churned ice-cream needs a few hours in the freezer before serving.

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Ingredients

1½ cups regular coconut milk

¾ cup sugar

flesh of 3 large ripe Hass avocados halved, diced (about 3 cups)

9 tsp fresh lime juice

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¼ cup dried shredded coconut or sweetened coconut flakes, or toasted almonds, pine nuts or pistachios to garnish (optional)

Method

Combine the coconut milk and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Turn off heat and let the mixture cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a blender or food processor, along with the avocado and lime juice. Puree until completely smooth.

Transfer the puree to an ice-cream maker; churn according to the manufacturer's directions. It will still be somewhat soft. Place in a separate, freezer-safe container with a tight-fitting lid and freeze for a couple of hours before serving.

If using, lightly toast the coconut in a small saute pan over medium-low heat, stirring constantly to avoid scorching. The coconut toasting should take less than a minute. Once the coconut becomes fragrant and acquires a tan, remove from the heat. Sprinkle as a garnish over the ice-cream.

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Serves 6

Adapted from chef and cookbook author Pati Jinich.

Avocado dessert recipes to go with?Washington Post story for Good Food. avocado and coconut ice-cream; chocolate dipped avocado cookies; iced avocado and coffee drink; avocado key lime pie. PHOTO CREDIT?Deb Lindsey for The Washington Post
Avocado dessert recipes to go with?Washington Post story for Good Food. avocado and coconut ice-cream; chocolate dipped avocado cookies; iced avocado and coffee drink; avocado key lime pie. PHOTO CREDIT?Deb Lindsey for The Washington PostDeb Lindsey for The Washington Post

Iced coffee and avocado drink (Es Alpukat)

Singapore native Pat Tanumihardja grew up on refreshing avocado drinks like this one, which combines chunks of avocado in a coffee-laced milk sweetened with a thick simple syrup. This version is blended into a creamy vegan shake, but it can also be made with regular or low-fat milk.

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The syrup is steeped with pandan leaves, which have a lightly citrussy vanilla flavour. Use the same syrup to sweeten tea and cocktails; if you have trouble finding pandan leaves, you can substitute a split vanilla bean and add a squirt of lime juice. Pandan leaves are available at Asian grocers (typically frozen).

Note: leftover syrup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 months.

Ingredients

For the syrup

2 cups sugar

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1 cup water

2 pandan leaves, trimmed and tied into separate knots

For the drink

flesh of 1 large ripe avocado

⅓ cup espresso plus ⅔ cup water (may substitute 1 cup strong brewed coffee, cooled)

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2 cups almond milk (may substitute other plant-based milk)

½ cup ice cubes, or more as needed

chocolate syrup and instant espresso grounds, to serve (optional)

Method

For the syrup: Combine the sugar, water and pandan leaves in a large saucepan over medium-high heat; once the sugar has dissolved and the liquid is bubbling, reduce the heat to medium and cook for eight to 10 minutes, until thickened, adjusting the heat as needed.

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Discard the leaves, then pour the syrup into a heatproof container or bottle. Makes about 2½ cups; you'll need ¼ cup for this recipe.

For the drink: Combine the avocado, espresso coffee, almond milk and pandan syrup in a blender. Add ice cubes, cover and blend on high speed until smooth and frothy. Add ice cubes and blend again, as needed, for a thicker consistency.

Divide the drink among individual glasses or cups. Drizzle the top with chocolate syrup, and then sprinkle lightly with ground espresso. Serve right away.

Serves 4

Adapted from a recipe by food writer and cookbook author Pat Tanumihardja.

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Avocado dessert recipes to go with?Washington Post story for Good Food. avocado and coconut ice-cream; chocolate dipped avocado cookies; iced avocado and coffee drink; avocado key lime pie. PHOTO CREDIT?Deb Lindsey for The Washington Post
Avocado dessert recipes to go with?Washington Post story for Good Food. avocado and coconut ice-cream; chocolate dipped avocado cookies; iced avocado and coffee drink; avocado key lime pie. PHOTO CREDIT?Deb Lindsey for The Washington PostDeb Lindsey for The Washington Post

Avocado key lime pie

The natural creaminess of avocado provides the perfect texture for this tart pie filling, with the added bonus that it requires no stovetop cooking.

If you can't find key limes, you can substitute regular limes – just don't forget the fresh lime zest.

Note: The baked, cooled crust needs to be refrigerated for one hour before using. It can be tightly wrapped in its dish and frozen for up to two weeks. Defrost before using. The assembled pie needs to be refrigerated for at least two hours, and preferably overnight.

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Ingredients

For the crust

2 cups finely ground biscuit crumbs

¼ cup sugar

scant ¼ tsp sea salt

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⅔ cup coconut oil (liquefied) or unsalted butter, melted

For the filling

flesh of 2 ripe Hass avocados, smashed (2 cups; may use fresh or frozen/defrosted)

4 tsp finely grated lime zest

½ cup plus 3tsp fresh lime juice (from about 5 limes)

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½ cup sweetened condensed coconut milk

1 tsp vanilla extract

pinch kosher salt

whipped cream, to serve (optional)

finely grated lime zest and/or thin lime wheels, for garnish (optional)

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Method

For the crust: Preheat the oven to 175C.

Combine the biscuit crumbs, sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Add the oil or melted butter and stir until the crumbs are evenly coated, with the consistency of wet sand.

Use a spoon or the underside of a measuring cup to press the mixture evenly into the bottom and up the sides of a 22cm round pie dish, bake on the middle rack of the oven for about 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for 15 minutes, then refrigerate for one hour, or until well chilled.

For the filling: Combine the avocado, lime zest and juice, condensed milk, vanilla extract and salt in a blender. Puree until smooth and silky. Transfer the mixture to the chilled crust, then use an offset spatula to spread it smoothly and evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours, and preferably overnight, before serving.

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Garnish with whipped cream, lime zest and thin lime wheels (optional).

Serves 6 to 8

Adapted from a recipe by Lara Ferroni, author of An Avocado a Day.

Avocado dessert recipes to go with?Washington Post story for Good Food. avocado and coconut ice-cream; chocolate dipped avocado cookies; iced avocado and coffee drink; avocado key lime pie. PHOTO CREDIT?Deb Lindsey for The Washington Post
Avocado dessert recipes to go with?Washington Post story for Good Food. avocado and coconut ice-cream; chocolate dipped avocado cookies; iced avocado and coffee drink; avocado key lime pie. PHOTO CREDIT?Deb Lindsey for The Washington PostDeb Lindsey for The Washington Post

Chocolate-dipped avocado cookies

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Avocado adds a mild flavour and tenderness to these tea-time-size cookies.

Note: The dough needs to be refrigerated for at least 1 hour, and up to 1 day. The dipped cookies need to set for about an hour before serving or storing.

Ingredients

For the cookies

¼ cup coconut oil (solidified), at room temperature

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¼ cup ripe, diced Hass avocado

¾ cup icing sugar

1 large egg

1 tsp vanilla extract

Finely grated zest of 1 lime, plus 1½ tbsp juice

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1⅓ cups flour, plus more for the work surface

½ tsp baking powder

pinch kosher salt

For the icing

170g dark chocolate coarsely chopped or broken into pieces

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3 tspn coconut oil

Method

For the cookies: Combine the coconut oil and avocado in the bowl of a stand mixer (or use a handheld electric mixer); beat on medium speed, until smooth. Scrape down the bowl.

Add the sugar; beat on medium speed for a few minutes, until fluffy, then add the egg, vanilla extract, lime zest and juice; beat until well incorporated. Scrape down the bowl.

Combine the flour, baking powder and salt on a sheet of baking paper. On low speed, gradually add the flour mixture, beating to just long enough to form a soft, well-blended dough.

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Lightly flour a work surface. Transfer the dough there and sprinkle lightly with flour so you can gather the dough into two logs, each about 24cm long and about 4cm wide. Roll in plastic wrap, twisting the ends to make a tightly packed log. Refrigerate for at least one hour, and up to one day.

Just before baking, if the logs of dough aren't firm, place them in the freezer for 15 minutes.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat to 175C. Line two baking trays with baking paper or silicone liners.

Unwrap the dough logs and place on a cutting board. Use a very sharp knife to cut each one into 14 to 15 thin slices. You may want to wet the blade of the knife after four or five slices to make it easier to cut. Arrange the dough slices at least 2.5cm apart on the baking sheets. Bake (using the upper and lower oven racks) for nine minutes, rotating the sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through. The cookies should be pale but lightly browned at the edges.

Cool on the baking trays for a few minutes, then transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely.

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Meanwhile, make the icing: Re-line the baking trays with new baking paper or wipe clean the silicone liners.

Melt the chocolate and coconut oil in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of barely bubbling water (medium-low heat), stirring until shiny and smooth. Remove from the heat.

While the icing is warm, dip one side of each cookie halfway into it, then transfer to the baking sheets to set for about one hour before serving or storing.

Makes 28 to 30

Adapted from a recipe by chef and cookbook author Pati Jinich.

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