The spectacular Dalmatian coast is a region defined by the sea, and its cuisine has evolved from the a long and complex history that has brought many foreign influences both to its shores and its food.
At its heart, Dalmatian cuisine is frugal, honest and rustic, with distinctive flavours, including silver beet, varenik (grape molasses) and prosek (Dalmatian fortified wine) that give it an identity all of its own. Similar to Greek and Italian food, fish, seafood, tomatoes and olives reign and the foundation of most dishes is good quality produce grown in pure, clean earth and treated simply.
Lentil, apple and pomegranate salad
In Croatia, we eat lentils frequently, adding them to soups, stews and salads. They are rich in minerals, vitamins and protein. The addition of pomegranate and apple makes this the perfect superfood salad. If you are health conscious, this is a nutritious salad that makes a great lunch or light supper.
300g tiny blue-green lentils
2 apples, finely diced
seeds from 1 pomegranate
1 red onion, finely diced
2 anchovies, chopped
½ bunch flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, chopped
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1. Rinse the lentils with water to remove any dust or debris. Put them in a saucepan with 900ml water and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer over low heat until cooked, about 15–20 minutes.
2. When the lentils are tender, season them with salt and pepper – do not season the lentils before this or they will be tough. Leave to cool.
3. Add the apple, pomegranate, onion, anchovy and parsley to the cooled lentils and mix well to combine. Dress with the olive oil and vinegar, adjust the seasoning if needed, then serve.
Serves 4.
Slow-cooked beef stew with prunes and apples
This is the queen of Dalmatian dishes. It takes a long time to prepare – at least one day marinating in good red wine or prosek (Dalmatian fortified wine) and vegetables, and a good 3-4 hours' braising the next day. It's often served with potato dumplings or handmade pasta. In Dalmatia, pasticada is usually cooked for big celebrations. It's an essential dish for weddings, christenings or other equally important days. In Dalmatia you are considered a great cook if you can make this dish, and my grandmother Tomica was a pasticada expert. Don't be frightened by this though – it's not that hard; it just takes a little time. But don't forget the most important ingredient – love.
2.5kg beef cheeks
1 litre red wine
50ml red wine vinegar
2 onions, sliced 2mm thick
2 carrots, sliced 2mm thick
2 celery stalks, sliced 2mm thick
3 cloves
½ cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
200ml extra virgin olive oil
100g prosciutto, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
400g tomatoes, cut into chunks
3 litres beef stock
2 apples, peeled, cored and cut into wedges
200g tinned pitted prunes, cut into 2-3 cm dice
1 tbsp dijon mustard
1 tsp prune jam
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1. Marinate the beef overnight in the red wine, vinegar, onion, carrot, celery, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves.
2. The next day, take the beef out of the marinade, separating the vegetables and reserving the liquid.
3. Seal the cheeks in a frying pan in the olive oil over high heat for 2-3 minutes. Remove the beef from the pan and deglaze the pan with the liquid from the marinade.
4. In a saucepan over high heat, saute the chopped prosciutto and, when crispy, the chopped garlic. Add all the marinated vegetables and spices and saute for 20-25 minutes. When the vegetables are cooked, add the tomato and saute for a further five minutes.
5. Add the sealed beef cheeks, the liquid you used to deglaze the pan and the beef stock. Braise for 1½ hours. Add the peeled apples and pitted prunes and cook for a further hour or until the cheeks are cooked – you should be able to push your finger through the cheek but it should still have some resistance.
6. When the beef cheeks are cooked, remove the beef, cinnamon stick and bay leaves from the braising liquid and set aside. Skim the scum from the top of the liquid, then blend it with a hand-held blender until smooth.
7. Adjust the flavour by adding the mustard and prune jam – the flavour should be sweet and sour. Divide the beef cheeks among serving plates and pour the sauce over to serve.
This is an edited extract from Dalmatia by Ino Kuvacic published by Hardie Grant Books RRP $50.
Photographer: Chris Middleton & Ino Kuvcic
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