11 Bridge Street Sydney, New South Wales 2000
As we went to print, Neil Perry’s 24-yearold flagship restaurant, Rockpool on George, was about to relocate to the historic Burns Philp building in Bridge Street. So this [18/20] is a provisional score. Perry promises only the address will change, and that talented head chef Phil Wood and a similarly confident, harmonious menu and wine list will be in place. This, then, is what we wrote in July 2013: ‘Phil Wood continues to dazzle with his technical sophistication and original, instinctive use of Asian flavours; layering a rich, lush lobster congee with almond tofu and scented peanuts, or building textural contrast into an extraordinary “thousand layer” tart of pork belly and chicken liver parfait. His pairing of Valrhona chocolate, earl grey tea jelly and crisp feuilletine with caramelised peanuts and cacao nib icecream is equally inspired.’ We have strong hopes that the new Rockpool will reach similar heights, if not greater ones.
Wine: An extraordinary international list including a few bespoke wines; 20 by the glass
And…updates on the new Rockpool at goodfood.com.au.