Romulus & Remus

It's not every day you can say you've opened a restaurant in a former golf driving range. Hospitality first-timers have transformed this one into an inviting, warm, warehouse-y Italian restaurant with a handsome salumi cabinet, pizza oven and open kitchen. Proper pizza is a worthy crowd pleaser, as is full-flavored pasta like pan-crisped gnocchi on sweet pea puree with chorizo chunks. Gloriously meaty wagyu polpetti have a chilli kick and great, gutsy smoky bacon napoli sauce. Suckling pig or goat can be ordered in advance, while other mains may trumpet fanciful combos (snapper, pumpkin ravioli, finger lime, creme fraiche, beurre blanc) which, perhaps surprisingly, work deliciously. Desserts stick close to Rome, though coffee-drenched tiramisu and coconut semifreddo may be pleasant rather than perfect. It's a smart-casual spot with cruisy service, jeans and Converse style, and paper napkins. Bar tables up front, booths down the side and a big share table in the middle tempt you to swing by – it's above par.

AND ... Beer and cider on tap.

THE LOW-DOWN
VIBE Rosati comes to Richmond.
BEST BIT Just what the 'hood needed.
WORST BIT The open kitchen entry needs an art director.