6 Melbourne Place Melbourne, VIC 30009663 9882
|Opening hours||Mon-Fri, noon-3pm; Mon-Sat 6pm-late|
No longer a seafood-focused fine-diner, Saint Peter's is now a jaunty Italian trattoria. This new, casual persona suits the laneway locale and split-level room with classic wood-and-white finish. The short menu is a kind of homecoming for chef Maurice Esposito, who is cooking the regional Italian dishes he was raised on, using Victorian produce. You'll still find a smattering of seafood, such as an intricate entree of calamari hood filled with a whole prawn and seasoned with rosemary salt. More home-style mains might include sweet Dory fillets on a relatively heavy kidney-bean bed, or a saffron-stained spaghetti special tossed with prawns. All pastas and risottos, perhaps wagyu lasagne and portobello mushroom risotto, come in two sizes - good for the lunch crowd. Italian desserts might include Sicilian almond and orange cake. Everything on the one-page wine list is available by the glass, but only three whites and three reds are opened at any time - first in have first choice. It's a fun, social set-up that sees the Saint loosening its halo a little.