Scala's

Get out of bed in the dark, get dressed and head for the markets at the crack of dawn, and this is your reward: a rich, heady espresso ($3) that will wake you up sufficiently to do battle for your fruit and veg. Frank Canturi and Phillip Versace took over this much-loved family business from Andrea Carrano in 2010, and managed to modernise it without losing too much of the Italian spirit. After shopping, come back for a pizze topped with salsiccie and capsicum, then pick up some pasta, pane di casa, salted capers and panettone and dinner is done.