Sepia

'A little dab'll do ya', goes the immortal slogan. Now it's Martin Benn who's the king of the modern-day dib, dab, dob. His signature artful culinary squirts enliven each of his wildly creative, delicately presented dishes. There's a dib of creamy, lime-green Tasmanian wasabi, a dab of mauve-tinged, near-translucent pickled ginger and a dob of delightful, refreshing sour cherry sorbet. Sepia's cuisine, with a little Nippon tuck, is now more contemporary Japanese than merely contemporary. Think sashimi of spring bonito, green apple and sheep's milk yoghurt, sake and chive oil, wasabi and red elk; and chargrilled beef tenderloin with barley, nameko mushroom, onions, bone marrow and miso mustard. Desserts excel and excite, including the near iconic seasonal chocolate forest, and the cheesecake of goat's milk fromage blanc and creme fraiche. Benn used to be described as 'Tetsuya's former head chef'. These days, he's very much his own man.