A capital restaurant capitalising on the unique character and flavours of the Canberra region.
Peter and Michael Harrington, it seems, have never left the kitchen. It's hardly surprising when you consider that the two brothers grew up in the kitchens of their parents' restaurants, where they developed their passion for food. Now, the co-owners of Sage are leaving their mark on the industry, keen to prove that Canberra has as much to offer as Australia's major cities.
And so far, they have. Since acquiring the restaurant five years ago, the pair have capitalised on what distinguishes Canberra from the rest: the unique character and flavours of the region.
With so many local movements touting home-grown produce as to make the point almost banal – something Peter acknowledges – Sage proves it is anything but empty of meaning. Ingredients are often sourced from their farm, a 243-hectare property nestled in the Majura Valley.
Found on the farm at this time of year are heirloom tomatoes and carrots, potatoes, members of the brassica family, figs, and a variety of herbs. Much like the menu, which evolves with the availability of produce and customer feedback, the farm continues to grow, with a herd of Black Angus cattle, Suffolk sheep and plans to include rare breed pigs and native fish in the dams.
Beyond its own harvest, the restaurant also makes use of the freshest regional produce, drawing on their close relationships with local farmers. "Our chefs go out every Saturday morning to the produce market here at EPIC (Exhibition Park in Canberra) – the farmers' market in Canberra," says Peter.
"One of the things we're really passionate about here and one of the reasons we've got the farm is we do use a lot of local produce."
But for Peter, the food is just one part of the experience at Sage. It is this holistic vision that suffuses the restaurant's design, which consciously avoids the austerity of upper-end dining establishments.
"We really wanted to create an environment where people can have fun ... It's not just about focussing on the food and the wine and the conversation you're having with the person next to you, it's about being in a room full of energy and passion and excitement," he says.
"The other thing that we're really looking to do for Canberra is actually promote the city and region as a great destination for visitors."
Against the backdrop of the historic Gorman House, where Sage is located, it's hard not to recognise in the restaurant a clear grasp of what it is that gives Canberra its identity.
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