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St Ali North

Contemporary$$

Can a cup of coffee taste like papaya and lime, or mandarin marmalade perhaps? Team St Ali says it can, and they search far afield (as in halfway round the world) for special brews. The third-wave coffee thing, plus the rad bike path out the front door, give this cafe a distinct Melbourne zeitgeist flavour, but the food occasionally misses the target. A jerk chicken thigh burger with house-made hot sauce is a fiery winner, but chorizo and chive scrambled eggs with bite-size octopus chunks may fall flat. Plump potato gnocchi with chilli-broccoli puree and grilled asparagus is a safer bet. There are lovely little cakes and pastries in the display cabinet, too.

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