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Syracuse

Syracuse Article Lead - narrow
Syracuse Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13.5/20

Mediterranean$$

There's been a changing of the guard at this long-time elegant CBD stalwart, but there's still a lot to love in Syracuse's soaring dining room, the opulent excess of plush curtains, pillars and chandeliers balanced by bentwood chairs and bare tables. It's something of a temple to wine, with bottles lining the walls and a well-curated list that nudges 30 pages. That's not to say the food's an afterthought, though it's perhaps less ambitious than previously, with tried-and-true Mediterranean flavours the top picks. Share-plates run from scallops and morcilla (the Spanish version of blood sausage) to bresaola (cured, air-dried beef) with a punchy, rough paste of olives and anchovies. You could happily make a meal out of these small tastes (throw in some terrine, plump lamb cutlets or a beetroot salad with lentils and goat's cheese), or treat them as entrees before moving on to, say, whole rainbow trout or a big, bold plate of duck confit or suckling pig (for two). Wrap things up with a light dessert of violet icecream, honeycomb and berries, or a trio of cheeses and another glass of wine.

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