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The AB Hotel

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$

The Ancient Briton is no longer ancient; she's a snazzy set-up called the AB that is part pub, part cocktail bar, part mod-Oz diner. The dining nook features metal flowers sculpted from kitchen implements sprouting from the roof. There are themed monthly menus, a great wine list and a huge range of tap beers including own brews. Counter meals come with wine suggestions; the salt-and-pepper soft-shell crab with garlic, spring onions and chilli is well matched with the chosen sauvignon blanc, while the double-cooked duck caramelised slowly in an Asian-inspired sauce on a bed of bok choy goes well with AB, the house lager.

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