The Bach Eatery

Pop quiz, hot shot. Is Bach a) the German composer who inspired '80s hair-metal band Skid Row b) the doctor responsible for a series of 38 remedies based on flowers and emotions c) the name of a new inner-west diner on the old Spencer Guthrie site with a Kiwi twist that specialises in neither baroque period music or herbal medicine? If you guessed C, get yourself a Monteith's.

Chef Darrien Potaka has gone back to his New Zealand roots, having opened this reasonably priced little bar/diner just a two-step from Newtown Social and Earl's Juke Joint.

Pronounced "Batch", it's got the bones for a little pre-gig supper, or could be the perfect primer for an evening on the daiquiris. If you can get in, that is - 7.30pm on a Friday night sees the place pumping.

It also turns out it's their least favourite time of the day, if the person who takes our reservation is any indicator ("you and everybody else" is their response when we ask for a table at, well, dinner time).

Oh, and they've also lost our reservation when we arrive. Cue a very sorry and absolutely lovely waitress, who shouts us a round of drinks for the trouble and somehow magics up a spot on a communal table, where everyone else is either discussing the merits of bikes with no gears and who's got a hope of graduating uni (stick with it on both counts, kids). 

Plate-wise, there are some nicely executed ideas here. Do the soft, squishy pea-filled arancini dressed with prawn bisque fill us with delight? Kind of, though there's something to be said for simple joy of a crisp, salty, deep-fried rice ball sans creamy shellfish soup.

Do we want to order a "white truffle potato dumpling" after finding out the truffle component is oil? Not so much (c'mon chefs, it's a synthesised product with little to no connection to the real thing - you're better than this).  

The skirt steak with grilled lettuce? Ah, now that's a different story. In fact, if we were to make a second visit, it'd be for this alone, and a few beers (they also sell L&P - NZ's favourite lemon fizz - if you're driving).

Perfectly seasoned, pink slices of the flavour-filled cut are covered in tendrils of deep-fried onion and accompanied by a neighbouring heart of grilled cos lettuce.

Add a side of broccoli dressed in butter and toasted almonds and that's dinner - game, set and match, bro.    

THE LOW-DOWN
Pro tip Visit neighbouring bar Earl's Juke Joint for a pre- or post-meal cocktail
Try this The skirt steak and charred cos: few things in this world are quite as so wrong-it's-absolutely-right as cooked lettuce
Like this? Call on the Butler for more drink-or-dine action, 123 Victoria St, Potts Point, (02) 8354 0742