16/20
Recent renovations suit this cosy old dame, with a traditional sports bar (plus TAB) out front, a modish bar sporting chesterfield-style couches and courtyard up top plus classic French bistro out back. Your best start is the house charcuterie plate for two, a meal in itself with chorizo, salami, liver parfait, prosciutto and bread with cornichons and pickled cherries. Aromatic chicken pie with white truffles is a treat, and pork, fennel and chilli sausages elevate bangers and mash to new heights. While wagyu burgers are ubiquitous, this version is superior. Desserts such as crema Catalan or churros make an elegant finish.
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