The Dolphin Hotel

Whatever 'smart casual' might mean, it sure describes this open-plan bistro. The decor's smart in that modern beige, charcoal way and the operation is casual. The menu is flexible and generous, with appealing grazing plates, salads, pastas and meaty mains, and there are more hits than misses. Chicken liver parfait is silky smooth but almost innocent of salt, while the crisp squid with sesame and soy is a hit. Spicy braised beef cheeks work on every level and a mesclun salad with goat's cheese, roasted root vegies and pinenuts is a good medium-weight option.