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Unico

Lee Tran Lam
Lee Tran Lam

The pumpkin risotto with parmesan crisps and dried olives at Unico.
The pumpkin risotto with parmesan crisps and dried olives at Unico.Cole Bennetts

Italian$$

'Unico' is Italian for unique and this Five Dock restaurant backs up its name with one-of-a-kind dishes: an appetiser that 'grows' on a tree, a pasta presented like a just-shaken cocktail and an entrée that looks like ice-cream spilling out of a waffle cone. (Unico also has a unique location that might cause a spot of in-fighting or fist-waving at Google Maps – despite its straightforward-sounding address, Unico isn't on Garfield Street, but can only be found if you loop around the neighbouring Five Dock library, scoring a bonus look at the bookshelf-filled windows in the process.)

Inside, you'll find 'Unico' emblazed on the lemon-yellow walls and a glassed-off section adorned with curly script that says, in Italian, "what bubbles in the pot is only known to Fabio and the lid". It's a reference to owner/chef, Fabio Durpetti, who'd worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy (Ristorante Fini in Modena and Ristorante Le Scuderie in Ascoli Piceno, where he was born) before opening this Sydney venue, thanks to his wife Daniela's encouragement.  

Durpetti edges around default Italian dishes – so don't expect bosciala or lasagna – and explains that he's tapping into the flavours of 100 years ago, with a presentation that's different. So an appetiser of parmesan prosciutto and potato puffs appears as deep-fried balls 'planted' on a decorative metal tree that's brought to your table. It resembles one Durpetti had in Italy, but this doppelganger is courtesy of an eBay search. The more people there are, the more puffs appear on the tree.

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Head chef Fabio Durpetti serves the just-mixed schekerata at a couple's table.
Head chef Fabio Durpetti serves the just-mixed schekerata at a couple's table. Cole Bennetts

An entrée of buffalo ricotta is 'scooped' into three mini waffle cones, tipped on their side like picture-perfect ice creams ready for their close up. Instead of sprinkles and chocolate, each cone has a savoury topping of confit cherry tomato, pesto, black pepper and parmesan. The effect is like a Cornetto having a run-in with a Caprese salad, and it's delicious. 

The 'Schekerata' features just-cooked mezze maniche (a pasta type which adorably translates as "short sleeves") poured straight into a jar, layered with Napoletana sauce and a jolt of olives, capers and basil, then closed tight. A restaurant staffer will give it all a good gravity-defying rattle, before letting the mixed-up pasta slide hot out of the jar onto your plate. Durpetti explains that he wanted to channel the showy effect of a bartender vigorously working a cocktail shaker – and this spotlight-grab works, as a neighbouring diner asks me about the dish and plans to order it next time. The pasta is unapologetically al dente, and the classic tomato sauce is shot through with the biting boldness of olives and capers. Simple, but striking – like my boyfriend's fettuccine with beef and pork cheek ragu. The recipe is so old that it can be credited to "my grandmother's grandmother", says Durpetti.

Another table favourite is the pumpkin risotto, which is not the monotonous gloop that this rice-simmered dish can be guilty of. Durpetti has souped his model up with pumpkin mousse and the crackle of dried olives and Parmesan chips.

The conetto with buffalo ricotta is like an ice-cream colliding with a Caprese salad.
The conetto with buffalo ricotta is like an ice-cream colliding with a Caprese salad. Cole Bennetts
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The room is full of reminders of Durpetti's heritage – from Italian prints and stacked tins of tomatoes to racks of homeland wines. Even the coffee and hot chocolate are from Italy, and desserts are region-evoking hits, too – like a lovely tiramisu made with spoon-resistant layers of savoiardi, coffee and mascarpone.

Service is friendly and mostly attentive. And a kind offer of a limoncello nightcap isn't the most original or 'unico' way to wrap up an evening – but most people would welcome it.

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