270 Swan Street Richmond, Victoria 312103 9428 2988
|Opening hours||L Wed-Sun; D Tues-Sat|
|Features||Accepts bookings, Bar, BYO, Licensed, Outdoor seating|
|Prices||Expensive (mains over $40)|
|Payments||eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard|
There are several unions at work here, that of chef Nicky Riemer, presiding over the open kitchen, and co-owner Adam Cash, who rules the floor with warm professionalism. There's the pairing of seasonality and dependability, plus flair and imagination that ensure this Richmond dining room just keeps getting better. With white walls, tiled floor, bare tables set with white napkins and good glasses, comfort is ensured. The cooking is fundamentally Italian/French with some Middle Eastern ideas: pastis-cured salmon with soft egg and horseradish cream; pappardelle with rabbit and grape ragu; roasted hapuku on silky eggplant with harissa-spicy chickpeas. Think beautiful Hopkins River beef – maybe steak, maybe in a tagine. Or tender suckling pig. Cheeses? They have a few, in perfect condition, or perhaps a coupe of house-made ice-cream. You can also take drinks and snacks on the terrace upstairs. Like a great long-term relationship, Union Dining is reliable yet still exciting.
AND ... Sunday lunch is a shared feast, and excellent value at $60.
Vibe A little slice of regional Europe in Richmond.
Best bit The seasonal menu.
Worst bit Dishes come and go from that menu.