Union Dining

Union Dining just keeps getting better.
Union Dining just keeps getting better. Photo: Supplied

270 Swan St Richmond, VIC 3121

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Opening hours L Wed-Sun; D Tues-Sat
Features Accepts bookings, Bar, BYO, Licensed, Outdoor seating, Business lunch, Events, Family friendly, Gluten-free options, Long lunch, Open fire, Private dining, Vegetarian friendly, Wheelchair access
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Chef Nicky Riemer
Seats 80
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Cash, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 03 9428 2988

There are several unions at work here, that of chef Nicky Riemer, presiding over the open kitchen, and co-owner Adam Cash, who rules the floor with warm professionalism. There's the pairing of seasonality and dependability, plus flair and imagination that ensure this Richmond dining room just keeps getting better. With white walls, tiled floor, bare tables set with white napkins and good glasses, comfort is ensured. The cooking is fundamentally Italian/French with some Middle Eastern ideas: pastis-cured salmon with soft egg and horseradish cream; pappardelle with rabbit and grape ragu; roasted hapuku on silky eggplant with harissa-spicy chickpeas. Think beautiful Hopkins River beef – maybe steak, maybe in a tagine. Or tender suckling pig. Cheeses? They have a few, in perfect condition, or perhaps a coupe of house-made ice-cream. You can also take drinks and snacks on the terrace upstairs. Like a great long-term relationship, Union Dining is reliable yet still exciting.

AND ... Sunday lunch is a shared feast, and excellent value at $60.

Vibe A little slice of regional Europe in Richmond.
Best bit The seasonal menu.
Worst bit Dishes come and go from that menu.