Don't miss Angie Hong's pop-up at White Taro

Pop quiz, Sydney: who's your favourite Hong? Are you Team Angie, the chef behind Vietnamese restaurant Thanh Binh or Team Dan, the man behind the menus at Ms G's, Mr Wong and El Loco? Not that you have to pick when it comes to the mother-and-son-super-duo. You can be both. And no doubt it's high fives all round in the Hong household for White Taro – Angie's new Surry Hills pop-up.

Here on Albion Street, there's a menu of straight-shooting Sydney breakfast classics (bacon and egg rolls, smashed avocado, eggs Benedict). But have a look at the dinner menu – it's here things get distinctly Hong-ish.

Maybe you'll start with bo la lot – lozenges of minced wagyu, covered in betel leaves and grilled till until crisp on the outside, juicy on the inside and scattered with fried shallots, green onion and peanuts.

Fresh rice paper rolls stuffed with deep-fried soft-shell crab and vermicelli give good crunch, but not as good as the crisp-fried quail. It's a winner combination of juicy, slightly gamey meat lifted with a whole lot of white pepper and lime thanks to the dipping sauce riding shotgun on the plate.

This is food specifically geared for groups. Which is fantastic if you're part of one. But if you're eating here as a two top and order as my dining pal and I do, you're going to a) look like a pair of maniacs and b) leave unbuttoning/belting/zipping anything within reach.

So while the roast duck salad with thin slices of roasted coconut and pickled coconut stems and cashews dressed in what tastes like a whole lot of pickle juice is worth digging your chopsticks into, it's not necessarily essential.

Unlike the DIY spring rolls. For my dime, it's a home run for the fluffy sugar cane prawn mousse fried until golden, sliced into fingers and piled up alongside pickled carrot and white turnip. Cast a basket of woven vermicelli noodles like a delicious net over a thicket of mint and sawtooth, lettuce and perilla. Off to the side, you'll also find rice paper sheets and a dish of water – everything you need to fashion an ace summer roll ready to be dipped into a side of nuoc cham.

So right, it's Hong.