A. Baker

Smack in the middle of the hyper cool NewActon precinct is one of the grooviest of the tenants, A. Baker and yes it is a baker, as well as an all day restaurant. Nicely laid out with distressed walls, and comfy banquettes dividing the space, it moves easily between brunch coffee spot and evening restaurant, with a nooky little bar downstairs as well. As the weather warms the big enclosed courtyard at the centre of the new precinct will be a wonderful spot to eat and drink.

Sometimes staff can be a little preoccupied here but the night we visit they are alert and attentive seating us as soon as we arrive and getting drinks on the table fairly fast. It is a busy mid-week night and, if you are after a really quick meal, this is not the place to go. Plenty of the activity comes courtesy of the chefs and, if you take a seat at the bar at the core of the place, you can look virtually into the pans. The confidence of a fully open kitchen is a good thing, whether you want to rubberneck or not.

It is increasingly common to find a selection of sliced meats available as a starter or nibble with drinks in groovy joints, and this only really works if they are a serious cut above what you can get at the local deli. On that front you are safe here. We chose three: a lovely mild coarsely ground salami, Campagnolo ($12) Longaniza Oscura ($13) a peppery pork salami stained magnificently black with squid ink and the stand out, a tender, clean tasting salted beef Waygu Bresola ($14). All are served with generous slabs of A. Baker bread, which is an asset with any of the dishes.

The wine list is highly Canberra focused, with a good range available by the glass. Nick O'Leary shiraz does the job well with the cured meats. The menu is divided into small and large plates, and you can treat them as starters and mains if you like, or order a brace of dishes to share. If you can't decide a $63 a head "feed me dinner" combination can be arranged.

We start with two subtle small plates that rely on careful balance and sophistication. Shaw River buffalo mozzarella ($17) is all about the texture of the cheese and subtle play of flavours and textures with black garlic, wafers of turnip and smoked walnuts. A largely successful dish, it is perhaps a little too muted but very pleasant nonetheless. A little nest of hand-made spaghettini ($17) is tender and nicely enlivened with cured and smoked lamb's liver, silverbeet, grated parmesan. An egg yolk sits up in the centre of the dish, to be immediately mixed through according to the attentive and well-informed waiting staff. All the elements work well together, making a very  edible dish. Also it looks very appetising, as do many dishes on offer.

Our large plate choices include a Snowy River trout, and lamb rump (both $29) from the compact menu of five small and five large plates, and daily specials. The trout is a lovely dish, shining pink, sweet and salty in just the right measure, and nicely contrasted with smoked yellow beetroot, brioche and firm kipfler potato. The Lost River lamb rump is juicy, the richness of the meat cut elegantly with nutty le puy lentils and celeriac, an added luxurious edge coming with some crisp belly. The cured meats made dessert impossible, but peanut butter semi freddo and butterscotch bread and butter pudding will lure us back – perhaps after a film across the road. Also a good range of properly stored and served Australian cheeses (no fridge-chilly cheese here) are available all day, along with other menu items.

Canberrans are getting used to  wider and more sophisticated eating options, at all hours of the day and night and A. Baker is playing a spirited part in that welcome change. The food is good, but sometimes perhaps a little ambitious; the service friendly and keen. A good place to go for a bite, early or late.