Acqua Pazza

Even in sparkling, go-ahead Sydney there's room for a little old-school familiarity. Acqua Pazza is one of those timeless CBD dining rooms where a business deal might be quietly sealed over a glass of prosecco or seasoned politicians might plot at a quiet corner table, all while amiable waitstaff hover. Acqua Pazza is smart without being grand, and quietly confident in its approach. The art on the walls will appeal to a specific eye, but the deep-fried school prawns is a serious crowd-pleaser. The addition of house-made chilli oil to the dish offers a nicely pitched high note. There's the namesake 'crazy water' fish dish - in this case, blue-eye with cherry tomatoes, plus a good selection of meat dishes to satisfy the city audience. Portion sizes can vary, and a diminutive duck dish was short on flavour, but crab linguinette is bountiful. There was nothing semi about the hard-frozen semifreddo. But as with all good things, you just need to wait.