Alpha

Alpha has upped the ante on what it is to eat good Greek food in Sydney.
Alpha has upped the ante on what it is to eat good Greek food in Sydney. Photo: Jason Loucas

238 Castlereagh St Sydney, NSW 2000

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Opening hours Lunch Wed-Fri from noon; dinner Tue-Sat from 5.30pm
Features Licensed
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Phone 02 9098 1111

Alpha is the first letter of the Greek alphabet: an apt name for one of Sydney’s top-ranking Greek restaurants. This impressive space - ancient Greece meets big, bright, contemporary diner - has truly upped the ante on what it is to eat good Greek around town. The jury’s still out on what Alpha’s alpha-dish is, but the clear winner for dessert is loukoumades: a golden ring of spongy, honey syrup-doused doughnut balls fringing a scoop of candied-walnut ice-cream. Otherwise, ‘vintage’ dishes from legendary chef Peter Conistis’ repertoire captivate, such as rabbit and olive pie or scallop and eggplant moussaka. The creamy arctic crab and haloumi tart with a fine filo pastry base has richly flavoured filling and souffle-light texture. To start, nothing surpasses hot, house-baked pita bread and mezes such as tangy, meaty pickled octopus and tirokafteri - a thick, creamy dip of sheep’s feta, chilli and red pepper.

And … An adjoining store sells Greek pantry products, cakes and pastries.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe
Kitsch-free, crowd-pulling, contemporary Greek. 
Best bit The grand setting.
Worst bit Not all floorstaff seem up to speed.

http://www.alpharestaurant.com.au/