Assiette (now closed)

A hint of seriousness comes from the crisp white tablecloths, but the cooking here is playful and inspired, and the dining experience enjoyably casual. Combining solid French technique with a leaning towards Asia has resulted in a particular Assiette style. It could start classically with an amuse bouche of rich, warm veloute of carrot and fennel seeds, then you're off and running with seared tuna on a sea of black sesame oyster jelly, with perfectly cooked oyster beignets - oh, we do like to be beside the seaside. Duck fillet is served rare, the confited leg and crisp pig's ears providing textural contrast. Beef fillet is paired with a highly flavoured wagyu beef cheek and pureed warrigal greens. A pre-dessert of lychee jelly layered with pineapple and coconut foam is perfectly pitched tropical freshness, or there's a berry salad with yoghurt ice-cream for a more classical finish. The balancing act of textures, techniques and tastes on every plate makes Assiette a class act.