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Aubergine

Aubergine is Canberra's star fine diner.
Aubergine is Canberra's star fine diner.Supplied

Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

European$$$

It has all the hallmarks of a neighbourhood diner – light, bright, modern and pleasant, with wooden tables, split-level dining and amiable service. But this is no ordinary local. This is Canberra’s star fine diner. And you’re here for amazing food and the wine that goes with it. Shut your eyes and point to anything on the set four-course menu because you can’t go wrong. Up first might be just-seared bonito with a masterful heritage tomato and eggplant terrine, enlivened with blackened fennel and toasted coriander. Barramundi is equally impressive, cleverly edged with spanner crab, with the sweetest of corn kernels, caramelised endive, carrots, and a splodge of orange and rich blue cheese. Pork neck in buttermilk with baked quince, turnips and a puddle of black pudding is more trad than fab, but jerusalem artichoke ice-cream with nashi pear, fig and gingerbread is nothing short of bliss.

And … Wine service is exemplary, no matter what your order.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe
High-end dining in a casual setting.
Best bit Wine. And food.
Worst bit Not central. Or perhaps that’s good.

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