Bacash

You don't have to adore seafood to eat here; Michael Bacash cooks meat and poultry beautifully, too. But if you're looking to fall in love with fish, this narrow, white-clothed restaurant, especially its park-facing front room, is a good place to begin. Start, perhaps, with the classic coupling of scallop and pork belly, with creamy Jerusalem artichoke and crunchy pistachio 'crumb'. Spaghetti marinara is a signature and a benchmark: tender pasta with olive oil, garlic, parsley, prawns, mussels, calamari and juicy seasonal fish. Generosity is evident in another Bacash classic: whole flounder with a choice of sauces spooned on at the table, a mountain of fries and a clean, green salad. Snapper may come as a refined version of a traditional Lebanese dish: gently cooked with sumac, silverbeet and caramelised onion. Make time for a souffle - maybe chocolate or passionfruit - it's worth the 20-minute wait. Take time, too, to seek advice from floor staff: from perch to pinot, they know their stuff.