Bistro Gitan

Bistro Gitan, with its warm and woody dining room, is proving a worthy counterpoint to France-Soir, its nearby Gallic rival. There is the same omnipresent cheerfulness and casualness, underpinned by cuisine that, while never strictly haute, is still above standard bistro fare. What else would one expect when la famille Reymond is in charge? The menu is well designed, with courses organised by size. The food is certainly inspired. The 'small soup on a daily inspiration' could be a classic intensely flavoured onion soup or white bean and cauliflower with chunks of ham hock. Other imaginative dishes could include a piccata of chicken livers with pappardelle, balsamic and watercress, a simple deboned garfish, or a mustard-crusted spatchcock with braised savoy cabbage. Desserts tend to be simple - although a five-flavoured ice-cream and sorbet tranche napolitaine might call for more than one spoon.