Bistro Moncur

It's been a while since founder Damien Pignolet sold this classic Woollahra haunt. Wisely, the new owners have scarcely changed a thing, including the annoying 'no bookings' policy and prices that continue to make the 'bistro' moniker laughable. The achingly eastern suburbs clientele remains faithful, too, drawn by the superbly prepared steaks (among Sydney's best) with terrific Gallic sauces and French fries, and a host of other appealing, skilfully executed choices. Light and deliciously creamy Alaskan snow crab and sweetcorn omelette with beurre noisette is a variation on a Pignolet classic; subtly flavoured provencale fish soup comes with a mayonnaise-like dollop of rouille; and rare, thinly sliced Thirlmere duck breast with foie gras, caramelised witlof and a port jus is top-notch. Desserts end this textbook French lesson on a high, with treats such as beautifully presented poached fruits and champagne sabayon, and a dark chocolate and orange opera cake. Pignolet might be gone, but he's not forgotten.