Blu Ginger, Canberra

It's all change in this corner of Civic where Genge Street meets Bunda. There's the share way, also known as the pedestrian/car obstacle course. The little coffee kiosk Octane has disappeared and been replaced by the airy hipster-friendly Bearded Bean. Tongue and Groove is gone and a new venue is in the offing. The Mediterranean Taze also closed unexpectedly in recent months. 

So there's much movement in this little row of food outlets – and then there's Blu Ginger. This slick Indian eatery is part of a small chain, with outlets in Sydney. And it's mostly unchanged – a brightly patterned feature wall, high ceilings, a warm feel with plenty of tables packed along the glass wall fronting Genge Street.

Tonight it's pleasantly bustling, with just enough conversational buzz and noise to make you feel like you're in among the crowd, without forcing you to compete with it. 

The menu is what you would expect from an upmarket Indian restaurant, but the wine list commendably includes a few local drops and some big-ticket names for a special occasion. 

Lamb cutlets take a while to come out but before we even think about glancing at our watch, an attentive waiter pops by to apologise for the wait ("they're just cooking now") and brings a basket of  pappadums to tide us over. The cutlets, when they arrive, are fat little meaty bites, tender and smoky, a substantial entree.

A vegetable kootu is deceptively and pleasantly mouth-tingling – the chunks of vegetable in a thick sauce full of shredded coconutty goodness.

For something a little milder, there's a classic chicken tikka masala, bright orange, super creamy and shot through with slices of capsicum. Hard to find fault with and very welcome on a chilly night.

Throw in a couple of fluffy garlic naan and you're done and dusted. We're too full for dessert, which really just consists of pistachio kulfi, but a mango lassi is perfectly adequate, fruity without being too sweet.

Service has been pretty outstanding tonight – charming and genuinely warm without being overly polished or glib. As we leave, there's a big group of young men in hoodies and turbans, bravely settling into a table outdoors under a heating lamp.

There might be plenty of change afoot but tonight Blu Ginger has been comforting and familiar. Let's hope it stays that way.