Light, bright, fun and modern... Bodega.
Light, bright, fun and modern... Bodega. Photo: Supplied

216 Commonwealth Street Surry Hills, New South Wales 2010

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Opening hours D Tues-Sat; group bookings only (5 or more)
Features Accepts bookings, Bar, Licensed, Wheelchair access
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Chef Ben Milgate, Elvis Abrahanowicz
Seats 70
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 02 9212 7766

Dinner at this box-sized funhouse is like one big, very loud party with both the music and the lively crowd turned up to full blast. The food, however, is a lot more interesting than you’ll find at most parties. Even when tattooed rockabilly owners, Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz, aren’t in residence, you can feel their influence on the dudey, Latin-influenced tapas menu. Pork sausage, chilli sauce and pickles wrapped in lettuce is very much a recipe for a good time, as are mussels, palm hearts, black beans and chilli. You may find yourself adding to the clamour, as you shout the praises of velvety pork belly, pickled celery, radish and romesco, or the lamb neck, silky, marinated eggplant and  padron peppers. Before you split, do try the split - the ‘Banana Split’, that is - cream flan, banana marshmallow, and dulce de leche ice-cream.

And … Chef's menu is available for groups of four and reads like a love letter to Argentina.

Light, bright, fun and modern.
Best bit Food with big flavours.
Worst bit It’s din versus dinner.