This Bonny bar snack combo is not to be missed

The life of a chef isn't an easy path. The long hours, late nights and party philosophy of the hospitality industry all create a strain that's often untenable. But it's also a calling. If you love to cook and love the pace of a professional kitchen, there's nothing else that quite scratches that itch.

This was the bind that chef James Cornwall found himself in after years of working his way up in kitchens around the world. He'd been head chef at Andrew McConnell's Cumulus Inc. for two years and had worked for Shannon Bennett (of Vue de Monde in the Rialto Tower) as well as in restaurants in London and Hong Kong. But he was struggling mentally, even after quitting drinking and taking concrete steps to improve the quality of his life. For a while, it seemed as though professional restaurant cooking was in direct conflict with his wellbeing.

Now he's trying something else. Bonny Bar, on Fitzroy's Brunswick Street, had been hosting chefs for three-month residencies. He saw in that model – one in which a kitchen and bar share a space, but remain separate businesses – a path forward. He could be his own boss without the huge outlay of capital and stress of opening a restaurant; he could also control his hours.

After discussions with Bonny Bar owners Adam Betts and Michelle Vanspall, the decision was made to form a more long-term arrangement: Cornwall moved into the Bonny Bar kitchen in late September.

The partnership was also formed around an ethos of sustainability. Bonny Bar primarily serves wine on tap, working directly with vineyards in order to reduce the waste of bottling and labelling. This means there are only a handful of options for each category – white, red, sparkling, rosé/orange – but they're local and fun, and you're fairly likely to find something that pleases.

The sustainability angle on the menu mainly shows up as game meat or other ethically raised proteins. There's venison in the form of a moist filling for salty, oily wontons ($14) – a perfect bar snack – and wild boar in the guise of scotch egg ($16).

Portarlington mussels ($15) are pickled, then presented on a plate splashed with liquid made from two kinds of garlic, black and spring green. It's a beautiful, tangy and addictive dish, and we were smartly advised to order it alongside the spelt flatbread ($5), which is wonderfully stretchy and hot and served with almond butter and wild fennel.

Cornwall makes a breaded and crumbed whiting sandwich ($22) that's like a large gourmet version of a Filet-O-Fish served on a round of soft, white shokupan bread and doused with mornay sauce.

For those wanting a more substantial feed, there's a lovely Western Plains pork tomahawk ($36), cooked perfectly and dusted with 7-spice and the sweet/sour essence of kumquat.

The service here is friendly and eager, to a point. One night, I found myself sitting at the bar beside an elderly gentleman dining solo, who was visiting from Sydney and obviously looking for a convivial meal and some light conversation. Our young bartender seemed to be actively avoiding him, even when things slowed down and he appeared happy to stop and chat with other guests. It reminded me that no matter how welcoming a hipster wine bar in Fitzroy feels to me, there's always someone for whom this neighbourhood can be less than hospitable. I wish that weren't the case.

But mostly, Bonny Bar is an incredibly comfortable and attractive neighbourhood joint, with hanging plants and plenty of bar stools and couches, and cosy nooks and window seats for people-watching. Cornwall's cooking fits right in with that vibe; his menu is flexible and allows for a quick snack with a drink, or a full-blown meal.

The quality of the cooking, however, makes this place destination-worthy, as does the hope that partnerships such as this one will thrive. Any format that allows someone with Cornwall's talents to keep cooking without driving himself mad ought to be supported and celebrated.

Vibe: Polished neighbourhood wine bar

Go-to dish: Pickled mussels ($15) with a side of flatbread ($5)

Drinks: Local wines on tap, good cocktail game

Cost: About $100 for two, excluding drinks

This review was originally published in Good Weekend magazine