Bottega

If Melbourne has a house style, Bottega fits it to a T. comfortable, wood-rich surrounds, professional service and produce-driven modern Italian food. At lunch, suited types might be drinking Syrahmi shiraz with their heirloom tomato caprese and char-grilled Belgian Blue T-bone. Come evening, there's a more laidback crowd (for whom doof-doof is anathema to food, rather than an anagram) taking their time over superb fritto misto, batter-dusted calamari, prawn and soft-shell crab whimsically served in a paper cone. Pasta, made on the premises, is especially good. things like baked nidi di rondine (swallow's nests) with smoked ham and fresh pea puree. Particularly good desserts may include blood orange cremino (like creme brulee), with coffee gelato. On warm nights the front windows open; when discretion is required there are booths and quiet nooks. Bottega is an assured restaurant that sits comfortably back from the cutting edge.