Cafe Bedda

Peek into this bustling trattoria early in the evening and you're likely to see parents with children satisfying that yen for good pizza - thin, crisp bases singing with combinations such as mozzarella, potato and caramelised onion. Later, the crowd's rowdier, as patrons tuck into rustic, heartfelt Sicilian food. Tender slices of crumbed eggplant with a swirl of tomato sugo, or golden croquettes of salted cod, make winning starters. Pasta - maybe ravioli filled with ricotta, peas and carrots and strewn with fresh tomato concasse - comes perfectly al dente. Robust secondi might include juicy roasted pork belly on wilted chicory leaves brightened with slivers of mustard fruits. Cannoli oozing ricotta laced with chocolate provide a sweet finale. Like the food, the decor's stylishly pared-back. olive-green walls hung with paintings of rural Sicily and wooden tables topped with salt from Trapani make for a subtle regional accent. And the staff? Adroit, with that knack of making all comers feel 'bedda'.