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Cafe Sopra

Cafe Sopra Article Lead - narrow
Cafe Sopra Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$

Sopra means 'above' in Italian but this location - below ground, in the basement of the Burns Philp building - is more than a cute joke. It's about brand recognition and the winning Fratelli Fresh formula of a scrupulously seasonal Italian-influenced menu sourced from the greengrocery section. Excitement and frustration levels in the queues of lunchtime office workers are guaranteed, given the no-bookings policy. But a seat will be found, whether at the long mozzarella bar, the bistro-style tables or in another nook or cranny. The vibe owes something to LA but much more to top seasonal Australian produce: just-picked zucchini flowers filled with milky local ricotta; sensational organic pork and lamb with meatballs and fresh tomato sauce with fettuccine; or conchiglie pasta with salsicce, crushed peas, mint and pecorino. Servings are huge, and while service can get stretched, it always comes with a smile and stays on track. Only a beautifully finessed buttermilk panna cotta gets the wobbles. Also at Potts Point, Walsh Bay & Waterloo

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