Capitol Bar and Grill, New Acton

Walk into the QT hotel lobby and a larger-than-life photo portrait of the federal cabinet confronts you – are there prizes for getting all the names? Pop art renditions of international political leaders fill the glossy foyer as you make your way into the hotel restaurant – the shiny, big Capitol Bar and Grill.

In the happening New Acton precinct, consultant chef Robert Marchetti's Italian-American steakhouse is getting plenty of attention, for the right reasons. It is certainly hard to miss, with a glossy black roof, challengingly low-down lights (tall staff have to dodge around them) and an unmistakeable buzz.

But what of the food? Oysters, steak, crab cakes, fries on the side and huge antipasto platters form the core, but there is plenty more on this vibrantly written menu. A good nod to the region comes in the featured produce section, labelled as food "we are excited about".

The oysters natural arrive nestled in a large tray of ice (a lovely touch, they just taste better this way), with a great limey vinaigrette. They are just shucked and sparkling fresh. At $30 a half dozen, every one is savoured. Tiny, piping-hot fingers of chorizo sausage come alongside and are a great contrast to the clean cut-through of the bivalves.

Crab cakes ($24) are nicely constructed, pleasantly crabby, and tasting of the sea. Staff pop by regularly and are pretty well formed about food and drink. We start with a Delamere rosé and move on to Balnaves cabernet sauvignon for the more strident mains. Prices by the glass and bottle are up there, but the quality and range are good.

Customers range from the dressed up for a night out to single hotel guests giving the work credit card a thumping. Behind us are a table of business types with one American clearly familiar with this type of eating ordering big steaks for all, and piles of fries.

We take a skirt steak ($33) and grilled tuna ($44) for mains, with a side of fries, of course. This is the smallest steak and grills for two are also a favourite, including a half duck and double rib-eye for four.

The steak is a beautiful cut, beautifully cooked, with all the flavour you should expect from this less common cut. A bowl of fries is slightly less than piping hot, which is a shame.

The tuna is a standout, fennel-and-pepper-crusted and with a Japanese-style salad – this is a great dish.

A deconstructed rocky road is much more subtle than the name would suggest, well balanced using excellent ingredients.

Overall, Capitol Bar and Grill uses superior quality ingredients, applying real skill in the kitchen with a splash of something special. A refreshing, stylish and tasty departure from ordinary hotel restaurants, for a special occasion or a high-level work meal.