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Charcoal Lane

Charcoal Lane
Charcoal Lanejholroyd@fairfaxmedia.com.au

13.5/20

Modern Australian$$$

Charcoal Lane draws deeply on local indigenous history. Once the site of the Aboriginal Health Service, the restaurant takes its name from the rear alleyway, where local Aboriginal people once met outside a briquette factory. Inside it's all snowy walls, polished floorboards and stylish touches, including an imposing woven eel trap lightshade. The kitchen uses native Australian ingredients without going the bushtucker route. You might start with wallaby tartare, wonderfully spiced with pepperberry and dotted with egg yolk gel and croutons. For mains, pork belly cooked for 18 hours and served with caramelised apple and native riberry jam may present as a little tough; better, perhaps, is paperbark-smoked barramundi with parsnip puree, chickpeas and rehydrated raisins infused with lemon myrtle. For dessert, rich, dark chocolate marquis with coconut sorbet, candied orange and salted caramel makes for a winning finish.

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