Capital's history on show at Chifley's Bar and Grill

On a cold winter evening the Chifley's Bar and Grill seems a very good option. Inside the glowing heart of the tastefully refurbished 1920s Kurrajong Hotel, famous for housing 1940s PM Ben Chifley and briefly John Curtin, it is all soft chairs and meaty aromas from the grill.

On the weeknight we visit, there is a clutch of well-dressed young things nibbling and imbibing at the bar, and the view out to the garden through layers of Art Deco glass is lovely, if frosty at this time of year. Returning on a summer evening for a jug of Barton (vodka, pineapple and watermelon) sounds good.

Along the walls are pictures of the old days, of Ben Chifley, pipe in his mouth, hat on and coat over his arm, making the 700-metre walk to Parliament House. He never did move into the Lodge, arguing it was a needless expense. In those days the hotel was known as Hostel Number 2, housing mostly Labor MPs and senators, with Hostel Number 1 (now the Canberra Hyatt) housing conservative members.

Today's elegant furnishings might have raised an eyebrow or two among Ben Chifley and his colleagues who were said to conduct caucus meetings over bacon and eggs. On a particularly cold night the comfy chairs are welcome, and we are keen to dig in.

The menu is unusual, with a grill vibe but a range of healthy, cafe-style salads as well, along with a soup and sides. Expectations were raised a few years ago when renowned chef Michael Chatto took over, but he's gone now, so it is a new ball game.

A starter of fritto misto (mixed fried seafood, $30) is a decent size, the batter light and the scallops, prawns and calamari tender and juicy. But by our measures there is too much salt.

Rymill Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) works very well with the steak, and is part of a distinguished list with some serious bin at the upper end and a long champagne list.

Next up we take the rib-eye on the bone ($44), the 200-gram salmon ($38), asparagus risotto with truffle ($40). After advice we order sides of onion rings, goose fat potatoes, and broccolini ($9 each).

Service at these prices should be good, and there is no lack of friendliness, but efficient and thorough it is not. On a number of occasions we are left to flag down a waiter, and sometimes there is no one on the floor.

The rib-eye is a well hung and cooked piece of beef, and cooked as requested. Flavoursome and of good texture, it is a pleasure to eat. The salmon is likewise well charred and a decent piece of fish, though perhaps a little overdone for my liking.

Sides are needed, and the onion rings are a deep golden brown and sweet inside, just as they should be. Goose fat potatoes evoke visions of crunchy potato nirvana. Instead these little, decent spuds are good and well textured inside, but lacking in crunch. Broccolini is properly cooked and seasoned.

The risotto is bright yellow with plenty of asparagus, but none of the richness and texture that real risotto should have. At $40 with truffle shavings, this is a disappointing dish.

A shared dessert platter ($30) is decent but not spectacular, with sticky date pudding, cinnamon brulee and banoffee pie.

The Kurrajong is a lovely place to sit about, but at these prices, we were expecting more from the food and the service.