Chin Chin

Is it possible to be fashionably early? Because that's the only way to roll at this rowdy diner, which is chockers at virtually every sitting. Awaiting the fleet of foot is a sparky array of pan-Asian faves: maybe braised wagyu wokked with bittersweet gai laan and rolled rice noodles; plump pork and crab cakes parcelled in oakleaf lettuce accompanied by a nam prik sauce piqued with salty duck egg; or sour whitebait curry teamed with green papaya. And the monochromatic surrounds? This former warehouse feels charged with foodie fandom, which doesn't look like abating anytime soon.