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Chiswick

Chiswick Article Lead - narrow
Chiswick Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$

Sitting at the back of the well-groomed Chiswick Gardens, the one-time Pruniers looks for all the world like a beautiful, gleaming glasshouse. Appropriate really, considering that the latest offering from Aria's Matt Moran and Peter Sullivan has its own working herb and vegetable garden of 150 square metres. Chiswick puts a whole new slant on 'farm to table', with not only produce from the garden but also superb grass-fed beef and lamb from the Moran family farm near Bathurst. A salad of rosa radish, marinated cucumber and goat's curd is just plain showing off, and silky-soft veal ravioli are lightened with microherbs, broad beans and baby nasturtium leaves. Share dishes are the go - whole snapper or a slow-cooked shoulder of brined, wood-roasted lamb, the meat cleaving to the fork. Once you've hoed into the rather generous Caramelia chocolate/caramel eclair with sugar plums, a brisk walk around the gardens might be in order.

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