Ciao Cielo

Judging by appearances, Ciao Cielo is one of Bay Street's introverts, and all the better for it. There is sidewalk seating but an alluring, darkened interior beckons. Bentwood chairs, glass-topped tables and an intriguing array of portraits set a stylishly nostalgic tone in the compact bistro. The menu focuses its energies, limiting the selection to a handful of entrees and mains featuring core suppliers, such as Hopkins River beef cuts. Contemporary flourishes underscore the Italian-influenced fare. lightly seared scallops are served with thick bacon cubes, green apple gel providing a surprising sugar hit; and barbecued, vincotto-glazed quail on fregola comes with macadamia, red grapes, pomegranate seeds and mint. Spanner crab spaghetti is finely crafted with intense confit tomato hinting of chilli. To finish, hummingbird cake is deconstructed in a tall glass with shards of candied walnut and salted caramel. Here's a quiet achiever that has earned itself a discerning following.