45 Flinders Lane Melbourne, Victoria 3000
|Opening hours||B L D Daily|
|Features||Outdoor seating, Bar, Accepts bookings, Breakfast-brunch, Business lunch, Late night, Licensed, Long lunch, Private dining, Romance-first date, Wheelchair access|
|Prices||Moderate (mains $20-$40)|
|Chef||Andrew McConnell, Casey McDonald|
|Payments||eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard|
|Phone||03 9650 1445|
Cumulus Inc hit the ground running in 2008 and immediately set the bar higher for Melbourne. The all-day, late-night 'eating house and bar' has spawned plenty of imitators but few come within touching distance of the elan of the gallery-like space, and the unique yet approachable food of Andrew McConnell. His menu works for dilettantes - fried mussels on a toasty blanket slathered with curried corn puree, or a magnificent charcuterie selection - but equally accommodates the committed diner. Grilled chicken hearts, their meatiness countered by verjuice and pickled rhubarb, is typical of the risk-taking elegance; clams with chickpeas and shreds of jamon in creamy sauce displays a recurring Iberian inflection, while the lamb shoulder for two has a cult following. To finish, rum baba in a custard moat, a bottle of Kahlua to add at will, takes a classic for a spin. Waiters remain the warm heart of a fabulous enterprise.