Cumulus Inc

Cumulus Inc, restaurant, Melbourne.
Cumulus Inc, restaurant, Melbourne. Photo: JOHN GOLLINGS

45 Flinders Lane Melbourne, Victoria 3000

View map

Opening hours B L D Daily
Features Outdoor seating, Bar, Accepts bookings, Breakfast-brunch, Business lunch, Late night, Licensed, Long lunch, Private dining, Romance-first date, Wheelchair access
Prices Moderate (mains $20-$40)
Chef Andrew McConnell, Casey McDonald
Seats 70
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 03 9650 1445

Cumulus Inc hit the ground running in 2008 and immediately set the bar higher for Melbourne. The all-day, late-night 'eating house and bar' has spawned plenty of imitators but few come within touching distance of the elan of the gallery-like space, and the unique yet approachable food of Andrew McConnell. His menu works for dilettantes - fried mussels on a toasty blanket slathered with curried corn puree, or a magnificent charcuterie selection - but equally accommodates the committed diner. Grilled chicken hearts, their meatiness countered by verjuice and pickled rhubarb, is typical of the risk-taking elegance; clams with chickpeas and shreds of jamon in creamy sauce displays a recurring Iberian inflection, while the lamb shoulder for two has a cult following. To finish, rum baba in a custard moat, a bottle of Kahlua to add at will, takes a classic for a spin. Waiters remain the warm heart of a fabulous enterprise.