55-57 Gertrude Street Fitzroy, Victoria 3065
|Opening hours||Sun noon-late; Tue-Sun 6pm-late|
|Features||Bar, Accepts bookings, Degustation, Wheelchair access, Vegetarian friendly, Gluten-free options, Private dining, Licensed, Events|
|Prices||Expensive (mains over $40)|
|Chef||Andrew McConnell, Casey McDonald, Allan Eccles,|
|Payments||eftpos, AMEX, Cash, Visa, Mastercard|
|Phone||03 9419 4888|
Cutler & Co displays the bravura of a restaurant that's been at the top of the heap for close to five years. The seductively lit dining room has Melbourne's beloved industrial-chic mash-up down pat, with exposed bricks and naked bulbs enhanced by skinny strips of mirror and a sweep of laser-cut metal that hugs the bar. From the chunky Laguiole butter knife to bulbous wine glasses, the details are finely honed. Service can occasionally drift off-course but the food is near faultless. A plump marron tail, pearlescent in the centre, gets a salty hit from wagyu bresaola and whipped cod roe. Caramelised quince and smooth boudin noir add sweet, earthy notes to pink-fleshed roast pigeon; plum sauce and a funky XO play the same support role to tender pork loin and crisped belly. Dessert, too, showcases clever pairing, balancing delicate Earl Grey ice-cream with chocolate ganache, sherry-sloshed prunes and cubes of honey jelly.