Cutler & Co

55-57 Gertrude Street Fitzroy, Victoria 3065

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Opening hours Sun noon-late; Tue-Sun 6pm-late
Features Bar, Accepts bookings, Degustation, Wheelchair access, Vegetarian friendly, Gluten-free options, Private dining, Licensed, Events
Prices Expensive (mains over $40)
Chef Andrew McConnell, Casey McDonald, Allan Eccles,
Seats 100
Payments eftpos, AMEX, Cash, Visa, Mastercard
Phone 03 9419 4888

Cutler & Co displays the bravura of a restaurant that's been at the top of the heap for close to five years. The seductively lit dining room has Melbourne's beloved industrial-chic mash-up down pat, with exposed bricks and naked bulbs enhanced by skinny strips of mirror and a sweep of laser-cut metal that hugs the bar. From the chunky Laguiole butter knife to bulbous wine glasses, the details are finely honed. Service can occasionally drift off-course but the food is near faultless. A plump marron tail, pearlescent in the centre, gets a salty hit from wagyu bresaola and whipped cod roe. Caramelised quince and smooth boudin noir add sweet, earthy notes to pink-fleshed roast pigeon; plum sauce and a funky XO play the same support role to tender pork loin and crisped belly. Dessert, too, showcases clever pairing, balancing delicate Earl Grey ice-cream with chocolate ganache, sherry-sloshed prunes and cubes of honey jelly.