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Dainty Sichuan

Chinese$$

The 'dainty' must be ironic: there's nothing subtle about the food here, an antidote to minimalist, natural flavours. You may need help to navigate the sprawling menu, where mains and starters are scattered throughout. Go the aggressively spiced cumin lamb (if you dare), a huge dish of mouth-scorching lamb marinated in cumin, scattered with chilli seeds and served with spring onion shoots; or the oil-slicked dried green beans- crunchy, salty and covered in fried pork mince. For a bit of fun, there are eggplant chips covered in a sweet, fishy, toffee-like batter. Sit upstairs, for a boisterous food-hall feel, or down, where hotpots bubble on the tables.

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