Dandelion

Dandelion might look restrained, thanks to its light colour palette, blondwood furniture and greenery, but the menu almost writhes with life. From rice-paper rolls bursting with soft-shell crab and avocado to luscious braised duck heady with coconut and holy basil, each dish delivers sparkling Vietnamese flavours and the polish we've come to expect from Geoff Lindsay. In between, pho takes centre stage – aromatic broths paired with snaking noodles, delicate water-chestnut dumplings and goji berry bursts, say, or sweet baby snapper and elephant-ear stem. Salads up the ante: a seared wagyu rump arrives still sizzling, sliced and zingy with nuoc cham, shallots, and lashings of spearmint. Desserts continue the balance of street food energy meets fine dining finesse. Steaming mango tarte tatin is a fitting finale, crowned by black sticky rice ice-cream. Or try a bite-sized coconut-lime truffle that'll transport you back east.

And … A $20 Vietnamese express lunch is available, including a glass of wine.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Chic and cheerful.
Best bit The pho.
Worst bit The bill can creep up.